Let me start by thanking all of you for coming.  It is comforting for me and my family to see how well regarded Grandma was.

My sister and I talked about how best to sum up 101 years of life, and it was not easy to choose only a few highlights, when there are so many.  What follows is my attempt to capture the essence of our grandmother.

As you know, she was a smart woman with a quick mind, and often a quick tongue.  She suffered no fools gladly, yet she was fair-minded, and held firmly to her moral centre.  She enjoyed a lively debate, particularly about politics.  Her financial acumen was top-notch, and in an effort to inspire the habit of saving in both me and my sister, she opened us not one, but two bank accounts, in two different banks, when we were 8 and 6, respectively.  Let me tell you, the Bank of Montreal was mighty impressed when I went in to ask for a mortgage a few years back.

Jean Dunn played many roles in her life.  Among them were housekeeper, store owner, teacher, church member, bridge player, and traveller.  She faced hardships in her time, yet she overcame them with determination and hard work.  She brought that work ethic with her when she would come to Brampton to take care of me and my sister in our younger years.  Our friends thought twice about stopping by the house when Grandma was in town, lest they be put to work making pipe cleaner Christmas ornaments, yarn pom poms, or be drafted to some other day-long craft project.  There was no lounging in front of the TV with our grandmother.

Our reward came in the form of Grandma’s cooking.  She made the best macaroni and cheese, and we demanded it every time she showed up.  Her butter tarts were unparalleled for the high quality of their gooey, but not too runny fillings.  We consider the recipe a family heirloom.  Let other clans have jewellery, WE have pastry.  Jam, roast chicken, cookies, pickles, cake, you name it, my grandmother could make it, and teach you how to do it, into the bargain.

Grandma could also sew, knit, crochet, embroider, and quilt with equal ease, so it’s no surprise that she taught Home Economics for 30 years.  I got to attend her last day of class in 1976, and I will never forget watching her explain to her students how to turn up a hem, and properly assemble fruit salad with mini marshmallows.

When she retired from teaching, she set out to visit many corners of the globe.  Grandma was an avid curler well into her 80s, so for years, she went to wherever the world curling championships were being held.  She brought back dolls in native dress as presents for us, and we amassed a large and diverse collection.  I believe I caught the travel bug from her, so if ever you’re at my home, wondering why I have an ancient fridge and stove, you’ll understand when I say that I spent my money on trips and not appliances.

Grandma did not spend lavishly, nor did she have extravagant tastes.  Household items were employed to their fullest extent and lifespan.  One of her oft-employed expressions was “It’s a poor thing that doesn’t have more than one use”.  She was of Scottish heritage, and grew up on a farm, so frugality ran in her blood, and she could not abide waste.  During the energy crisis of the early 1970s she diligently monitored our electricity consumption, and reminded us constantly to conserve as much as possible.  To this day, I cannot leave a room without turning off the lights, even if I’m going back in ten minutes.

Grandma loved books, and I have fond memories of her reading to me and my sister when we were little, thus instilling a love of literature.  She was a stickler for good grammar, and she valued an expressive reading voice.  Sloppy talk was not tolerated, and I am sure that I owe my love of language at least in part to Grandma insisting that it absolutely mattered to get it right.

When my grandmother turned 100 years old last year, it was the two hundredth anniversary of Charles Dickens’ birthday.  I thought it was only fitting to read her a quote from him, and I offer it to you now as a final thought on Grandma’s rich existence:

“Father Time is not always a hard parent, and, though he tarries for none of his children, often lays his hand lightly upon those who have used    him well; making them old men and women inexorably enough, but leaving their hearts and spirits young and in full vigor. With such people the gray head is but the impression of the old fellow’s hand in giving them his blessing, and every wrinkle but a notch in the quiet calendar of a well-spent life.”

I think you will agree that Jean Dunn’s life was indeed well-spent.  Thank you again for honouring it today.

Wine line-up at Trialto

On February 12^th, Trialto Wine Group hosted a tasting of products from the California-based Hope Family Wines (www.hopefamilywines.com) portfolio.

Some of the Hope Family wines tasted

Méliza Jalbert, Export Director, with Liberty School Chard.

Méliza Jalbert, Export Director for Hope, presented seven wines, and told stories about how certain brands came to be.  For example, the brand name Treana is meant to reflect the combination of water, sun and soil.  Tasting notes are below, as well as Ontario availability, if known.

New label for Liberty School

Liberty School Chardonnay 2011               (LCBO Vintages March 30^th)

(Includes 5% each of Marsanne and Viognier, and 70% of the wine is aged in used barrels)

Med. gold colour.  Med. intensity nose of baked apples, pastry crust, pineapple, vanilla, and popcorn.

Dry, full body, med. acidity.  Apple crumble, pineapple, vanilla, and baking spice.  Balanced.  Long length, very good quality.

Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon 2010              (LCBO Vintages essential)

Deep garnet colour.  Med. intensity nose of smoke, leather, black currant, blackberry, and blueberry.

Dry, med. plus body, med. tannin.  Pencil lead, smoke, black currant, blueberry, and earth.  Long length, very good quality.  More elegance than previous vintages.  Drink with meat or robust cheese.

Liberty School Syrah 2010

(Includes a small amount of Viognier)

Opaque purple/plum colour.  Low to med. intensity nose of cured meat, smoke, violets, blackberry, and dark cherry.

Dry, full body, med. plus tannin.  Violets, smoke, blackberry, underbrush, cured meat, and cherry.  Long length.

Candor Zinfandel Lot 3                                  (LCBO Vintages March 30^th)

(Multi-vintage blend.  Number indicates production run)

Dense black plum colour.  Med. intensity nose of cranberry, black currant, earth, white pepper, black olive, and orange pekoe tea.

Dry, full body, med. tannin.  Pie cherries, tea, white pepper, blueberry jam, and raspberry.  Plush mouthfeel.  Med. length.

Treana Red 2009

(70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Syrah)

Dense purple/garnet colour.  Low to med. intensity nose of bacon, pencil lead, and red currant.

Dry, med. plus body, and high tannin.  Lead, red currant, earth, leather, and goji berry.  Med. plus length.

With Treana Red

Troublemaker Blend 4

(Multi-vintage.  67% Syrah, 22% Mourvèdre, 8% Grenache, and 3% Petit Syrah)

Opaque purple colour.  Med. intensity nose of plum, cherry, raspberry, smoke, and black pepper.

Dry, full body, med. tannin.  Raspberry, plum, smoke, cranberry sauce, cherry trifle, and cocoa.  Med. length.

Troublemaker Blend 4

Treana White 2009

(50% Marsanne and 50% Viognier)

Med. gold colour.  Med. intensity nose of lychee, guava, custard apple, lemon Danish pastry, and peach.

Off-dry, med. plus body, med. acidity.  Lychee, yellow apple, papaya, peach, and honeysuckle.  Long length.  Very good quality.

I tasted many wines, many of them exceptional, and many of those with stiff prices for the average wine consumer.  Below I provide reviews for bottles that are more accessibly priced, as well as bottles that might be considered splurges, ranked as “Low”, “Medium”, and “High”.  Bear in mind that any of these red wines will need decades to round into form, so if you are impatient, big Bordeaux bottles may not be for you.  One sweet wine at the end, just to finish things properly.

White

Low:                      Château de Chantegrive Blanc                   AC Graves Blanc

$33.00 per bottle, sold in a three-bottle lot for $99

Pale gold colour.  Med. plus intensity nose of wet stone, candied pineapple, lemon peel, orange, and cilantro.

Dry, med. body, med. plus acidity.  Orange, lemon, slate, and cilantro.  Med. plus length.

Medium:             Château Bouscaut Blanc                               AC Pessac-Léognan

$55.00 per bottle/ $165 for three-bottle lot

Pale gold colour.  Med. intensity nose of candied citrus slices, quince, and lily of the valley.

Dry, med. body, med. acidity.  Lemon zest, clementine, and struck match.  Long length

High:                      Château Pape Clément Blanc                     AC Pessac-Léognan

$229.00 per bottle/ $687.00 for three-bottle lot

Med. gold colour.  Med. plus intensity nose of lemon peel, fresh herbs, resin, and stone.

Dry, med. body, and med. acidity.  Fresh lemon, lemon peel, and lemongrass.  Hints of tropical fruit such as guava, too.  Long length.

Red

Low:                      Château de Camensac (55% Cab. Sauv., 45% Merlot)       AC Haut-Médoc

$45.00 per bottle/ $135.00 per three-bottle lot

Med. plus density garnet/ruby colour.  Med. intensity nose of dark cocoa, raspberry, blackberry, blueberry, and cedar.

Dry, full body, high tannin.  Smoke, vanilla, blackberry, and cranberry.  Med. plus length.

* Château La Gaffelière, from AC Saint-Émilion had a similar taste profile, and was priced at $145 per bottle/$435.00 per three-bottle lot.

Medium:             Château Clinet                  AC Pomerol

$199.00 per bottle/ $597.00 per three-bottle lot

Deep garnet colour.  Med. plus intensity nose of cherry, green pepper, roses, and raspberry.

Dry, full body, high tannin.  Cocoa, green pepper, raspberry, cherry, and underbrush.  Long length.

High:                      Château-Figeac                                AC Saint-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé

$425.00 per bottle/ $1275.00 per three-bottle lot

Deep plum/garnet colour.  Med. intensity nose of dark chocolate, dark cherry, raspberry compote, blueberry, and earth.

Dry, full body, high tannin.  Chocolate-covered cherries, blueberry jam, earth, and leather.  Long length.  Gorgeous.

Sweet

Château Coutet                AC Sauternes-Barsac, 1er Cru Classé en 1855

$115.00 per bottle/ $345.00 per three-bottle lot

Deep gold colour.  High intensity nose of acacia honey, peach jam, beeswax, tarte tatin, and crème caramel.  Luscious, full body, med. acidity.  Peach, honey, beeswax, and vanilla custard.  Long length.

The tasting was led by Rasoul Salehi, General Manager and perennial employee-of-the-month.  Every wine was excellent.  My personal favourites were the Ava and the Retouche from Le Vieux Pin.   For availability information, and orders of the wines noted below, contact orders@bwwines.com.

Some of the great wines from Le Vieux Pin and La Stella

Tasting Le Vieux Pin at the Fine Wine Reserve. Jan. 16, 2013

Le Vieux Pin

Ava 2011 (Viognier, Rousanne, Marsanne)

Very pale straw colour.  Med. intensity, perfumed nose of peach, pineapple, pink grapefruit, and slate.  Dry, med. body, med. acidity.  Peach, tangerine, yellow apple, and minerals.  Long length.  Delicious.

Le Petit Rouge 2008 (Merlot, Cab. Sauv., Syrah, Pinot Noir)

Med. garnet colour.  Med. intensity nose of cranberry, black currant, black cherry, leather, and underbrush.

Dry, med. plus body, med. tannin.  Dark cherry, cocoa, black currant, leather, and stone.  Med. plus length.

Syrah 2010

Med. plus density garnet colour.  Med. intensity nose of smoke, cured meat, pencil lead, plum, and blackberry.

Dry, med. plus body, med. plus tannin.  Dusty blackberry, plum, smoke, and black olive.  Med. length.

Retouche 2009 (75% Cab. Sauv., 25% Syrah)

Med. plus density ruby/plum colour.  Med. intensity nose of Damson plum, smoke, pencil lead, and dark chocolate.

Dry, full body, high tannin.  Dark chocolate, raspberry compote, cherry, minerals, and violets.  Long length.  Elegant.  Buy a case and lay it down.

La Stella

Fortissimo 2010 (Merlot, Cab. Franc, Cab. Sauv., Sangiovese)

Deep garnet/ruby colour.  Med. intensity nose of raspberry, bacon, black plum, and vanilla.

Dry, full body, high tannin.  Chocolate, vanilla, plum, bacon, cranberry sauce, and raspberry.  Long length.

Maestoso 2009 (100% Merlot)

Med. garnet/ruby colour.  Med. intensity nose of raspberry, pie cherry, earth, vanilla, and blueberry.

Dry, full body, med. tannin.  Coffee, cocoa, raspberry, vanilla, and roses.  Med. plus length.

La Sophia 2009 (100% Cab. Sauv., sourced from a single vineyard)

Med. to deep plum/ruby colour.  Med. plus intensity nose of espresso, cherry pie filling, dill, iodine, smoke, and blackberry.

Dry, full body, high tannin.  Saline, earth (peat), cherry, and leather.  Long length.

Trius Brut

Greeting guests with a glass of bubbly makes any event feel special.  Trius Brut VQA is a traditional method sparkling wine (made like Champagne) without the traditional high-end price tag.  It smells and tastes like fresh red apples, melon, lemon, and toast.  It goes with a wide range of savoury snacks; everything from potato chips to mild creamy cheeses to smoked salmon.

A refreshing white wine is welcome at cocktail hour, and around the table.  Boschendal “The Pavillion” Chenin Blanc – Viognier 2011 from South Africa has a nose of apricot, pear, melon, and lanolin.  On the palate there is all of that, plus green apple and beeswax.  Roasted spiced almonds, tangy tuna tartare, or a seafood supper would be great matches.

Boschendal The Pavillion Chenin Blanc-Viognier 2011

Negrar Valpolicella 2011

If you’ve got red meat in the oven, or a hearty pasta with tomato sauce on the menu, some red wine is always handy.  For something like sausages or lasagna, lightly chill a bottle of Cantina di Negrar Valpolicella 2011.  It has smells and flavours of cranberry, sour cherry, earth, and pencil lead.  Chilling brings out the fruit, and makes the wine taste more refreshing.  When making gourmet pizza, ratatouille, or a roast of beef, a good local option is Trius Merlot 2011 VQA, with notes of raspberry, cocoa powder, earth, and a hint of vanilla.  This wine even goes well with dark chocolate.

Trius Merlot 2011

Happy holiday sipping,

Sue

As usual, some vendors were offering samples for a reasonable number of tickets, while others appeared to be attempting to earn back the exhibitor fee in one night.  The LCBO Vintages booth is always one of the best values at the show, and they had plenty of interesting options, many for just a single ticket ( $1).  My favourite was Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc 2011 from South Africa.  It showed orange peel, quince, stone, and some lemon, and it went down a treat with three Malpeque oysters from the Rodney’s booth.

At the Wines of Georgia booth

Champagne with friends

With Domaine de la Ville de Colmar, a wine I tried in Alsace during the summer

President’s Choice was serving up lobster risotto, and they happened to be near the Hidden Bench booth, so I paired 2010 Chardonnay with the dish, and it was magic.  Both the food and the wine were rich and luxurious.

Wild boar risotto and Tosalet Priorat

Risotto was on the menu at the Catering by Elio booth, as well, and it’s a go-to spot for me at this show.  I had wild boar risotto with Tosalet Priorat 2007 from the Wines of Spain booth.  The savoury character of the rice was matched by the cherries and chocolate character of the wine.  My second glass of Spanish wine was Beronia Rioja 2007.  Full-bodied, and showing notes of black currant, smoke, leather, and black plums, this wine would be perfect with a roaring fire and some grilled striploin.

Beronia Rioja 2007

The Gourmet Food & Wine Expo spoils people for choice.  They try to have something for everyone, and I would say they manage it.  I look forward to next year.

We were offered samples of five different wines.  Here are my notes:

Vermentino 2011

Pale straw colour.  Med. intensity nose of quince, pear, lemon peel, and stone.  Dry, med. body, med. acidity.  Pear, quince, stone, and candied lemon slices.  Lots of flavour and finesse.  This is the wine Pinot Grigio wishes it could be.

Integolo 2010 (60% Cab. Sauv., 40% Montepulciano.  Unoaked)

Med. garnet colour.  Med. intensity nose of raspberry, blackberry, cocoa, cedar, and blueberry.  Dry, med. body, med. to med. plus tannin.  Cocoa, coffee grounds, raspberry, and cranberry.  Med. length.  Pair with beef carpaccio.

Baldoro 2011 (60% Cab. Sauv., 35% Montepulciano, 5% Alicante)

Deep ruby/plum colour.  Med. intensity nose of earth, green pepper, and black currant.  Dry, full body, med. plus tannin.  Green pepper, black pepper, black currant, and black plum.  This wine needs time to integrate.  Do not open until 2013 at the earliest.

Carpoli 2008 (65% Cab. Sauv., 30% Cab. Franc, 5% Petit Verdot.  Typical Bolgheri blend, aged in oak barriques for two years.)

Opaque plum colour.  High intensity nose of tobacco, earth, smoke, black currant, blackberry, and coffee.  Dry, full body, high tannin.  Smoke, earth, black currant, coffee, tar, and blackberry.  Excellent quality.  A wine for aging, and then enjoying with a fine plate of venison.

Carpoli 2008

Vendemmia Tardiva 2008 (botrytis-affected Vermentino, harvested in November and December.  Takes three years to ferment)

Deep amber colour.  High intensity nose of black tea, orange peel, dark honey, hazelnuts, and toasted bread.  Lusciously sweet, med. body, med. acidity.  Buckwheat honey, black tea, hazelnuts, and apricot.  Long length.  Wonderful on its own at the end of a meal, or with desserts such as crème caramel.

Davide Sada with some Vendemmia Tardiva

Glasses for media tasting.

For the first time in my experience, there was a media tasting for two hours before the trade tasting started at one o’clock in the afternoon.  Having the chance to sample many of the wines in a quiet, calm, well-lit  atmosphere was welcome, and we were provided with a lunch buffet.  After that, it was into a ballroom to circulate for three hours.

Wines lined up in the media space.

New look for Trius Sauv. Blanc

According the organizers, 182 wines were poured, so getting to them all was pretty much impossible, but I did what I could.  Here are some of the highlights:

2027 Cellars Falls Vineyard Riesling 2011 – Tangerine, lemon peel, stone, and white peach.  Very refreshing.

Trius Sauvignon Blanc 2011 – Lemon, tangerine, gooseberry, honeydew melon, and flint.  Crisply fabulous.

Hidden Bench Riesling 2011 – Custard apple, tangerine, papaya and peach.  High quality wine.

Bachelder Wismer Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2010– Yellow apple, vanilla wafers, Bosc pear, and candied citrus.  Elegant excellence.

Bachelder Wismer Single Vineyard Chardonnay

Fielding Pinot Gris, Estate-bottled 2011 – Guava, yellow apple, mandarin orange and nectarine.  Rich and delicious.

Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009 – Cherry, earth, vanilla, and red currant.  Lots of finesse.

Château des Charmes Cabernet France, St. David’s Bench Vineyard 2010 – Cranberry, green pepper, dark cherry, cocoa, and smoke.  Pair with braised red meat.

Peninsula Ridge Reserve Meritage 2010 (50% Merlot, 30% Cab. Sauv., 20% Cab. Franc) – Blackberry, vanilla, raspberry, earth, and white pepper.  Build to last.

Ed Madronich and David Lawrason

Canal near Châtel-Censoir. 25.07.12

Laying out a picnic on my rain jacket

Post-picnic nap

The red cross, literally.

The day got hotter and hillier as it wore on.  When we got to Vézelay, two of us decided to save our knees for another day, and walked our bikes up the ridiculously steep hill that leads to the Basilica.  A climb worth making, to be sure, but you really have new appreciation for mountain goats after doing it.  After surveying the countryside from on high, we rolled downhill to continue to Avallon, our stop for the next two nights.

Front of Vézelay Basilica

Altar and side aisle at Vézelay

Basilica of Vézelay

Side of Basilica of Vézelay

Waterworks at Vézelay

After the climb up, it better look this good

Avallon sits inside Morvan Regional Nature Preserve, which meant fantastic woods and fields all around it for us to admire on the way.  Avallon also sits at the top of a big hill.  Do you see the pattern emerging here?  One last major effort, and we were in the charming town centre.  There was much rejoicing.

Hôtel d’Avallon Vauban (www.avallonvaubanhotel.com) was a simple place, with a lovely garden.  The interior decoration was somewhat less lovely, with hallways the colour of Pepto-Bismol, although part of the fun of these cycling trips is the quirky accommodation.  For example, this spot had free WiFi, for which you didn’t even need a code, but had no hair dryers in the bathrooms.

My room at Hôtel d'Avallon Vauban in Avallon

Bathroom at Hôtel d'Avallon Vauban

For dinner, I sat in the courtyard of the Hostellerie de la Poste.  The hotel bills itself as a four-star, yet I found the restaurant could have used a bit more polish.  The food was decent, though, and after a long day on the bike, it did the trick.  A little walk around town, and then it was off to bed.

Warm goat cheese salad at Hostellerie de la Poste

Main course of beef cheeks at Hostellerie de la Poste

 

Crème brûlée for dessert

Breakfast buffet part #1 in Avallon

Breakfast buffet part #2 in Avallon

With a whole park around us, we felt compelled to get out and enjoy it on the loop day.  It was blazing hot, and there were, of course, hills to climb, so there were lots of water breaks.  At lunchtime, we found ourselves in the tiny village of L’Huis Raquin, at Le Chastellux Café Restaurant.  The charming owner, Laurent Six, had lived in England for 15 years, so he spoke excellent English.  We sat on the back terrace, and enjoyed a terrific lunch.  At the end of the trip, we voted this as being in the top three for group meals.

Melon and cured ham to start lunch at Le Chastellux. 26.07.12

Chicken in mushroom sauce, with fries

Laurent, the owner of Le Chastellux, serving us on the terrace.

Brownie sundae for dessert at Le Chastellux

 

Sculptures in the dining room at Le Chastellux

We shortened our ride a bit on the way back, which got us out of the sun faster, and allowed for laundry, shopping, and cocktails in the town centre.  There was a free exhibition of works by Arne Tengblad, so I checked that out, and found it excellent.

On a plaza in AvallonChurch in Avallon. Part of it is now exhibition space.

                                        

Mixed media exhibition of Arne Tengblad works

Before dinner, we sat in the hotel’s garden and had some Crémant de Bourgogne and Bourgogne Aligoté (affectionately called Burgundy Alley Cat by my family).

Local wines before dinner

Just down the street from our hotel, we had dinner at Le Relais des Gourmets (www.relaisdesgourmets.com), home to a rare sight in a French restaurant: a salad bar.  As a North American, I am well acquainted with salad bars, and I felt that I had to try this one to compare.  It completely lived up to its billing.  I could have just circled it a few times and been satisfied for the night.

Group dinner at Le Relais des GourmetsSalad bar at Le Relais des Gourmets

Chablis ham

 

One of our wines

 

My main course was ham, served with a tomato sauce, on an overwrought plate.  I had food envy when our guide got oeufs meurettes, eggs poached in a red wine, bacon, and onion sauce.

There was a dessert bar, so I was able to sample a few different sweet things at the end of the meal.  If I could have gotten away with taking the whole dish of chocolate mousse to my table, I would have done it.

Dessert bar at Le Relais des Gourmets

Self-serve chocolate mousse

Friday’s theme for the first half of the ride was cheese.  Specifically, a cheese called Époisses, from a town with the same name.  The cheese is soft, stinky, and one of my all-time favourites.  Lunch was at La Pomme d’Or in Époisses, where I got the four-course menu of the day for €12.

Patio at La Pomme d'Or in Époisses

Menu of the day

To start, there was oeuf dur Macedoine, which was hard-boiled egg over vegetables in mayonnaise.

Oeuf dur Macedoine

My main was a piece of fish with salad and fries.

Main course of fish with fries and salad

Next up was a cheese plate that made me do a little chair dance of joy.  So many smelly, runny, fabulous things, all at the perfect (not chilled) temperature.  I was allowed to have as much as I liked, as long as I finished what I took.  Mice for miles around were sick with envy.

Ooey, gooey plate of cheese, including St. Marcellin, Reblochon, Chaource, and of course, Époisses. Divine.

Dessert was a refreshing dish of sorbet.

Cows running away from us as we left Époisses

After lunch, it seemed that a storm was approaching, so we moved pretty quickly.  Our arrival at the Hôtel de la Gare (www.hotel-de-la-gare-montbard.com) in Montbard coincided with the start of a biblical hail storm.  No sooner had we stowed our bikes in the garage, than the giant ice pellets started coming down.

Big chunks of hail falling in Montbard

My room at Hôtel de la Gare in Montbard

WC in Montbard

Given the poor weather, we decided to eat at the hotel.  Service was dodgy until our guide got things turned around with a mix of charm and backbone.  Dinner was not the greatest, although we did have some very tasty wine, including free sparkling from the owner to apologize for earlier troubles.

A poor example of oeufs meurette

Terrine salad

Thank Bacchus for good wine

Another tasty bottle in Montbard

My last molten chocolate cake

The opening ceremonies of the London Olympics were on, so I stayed up to watch.  I cheered when the Canadian athletes entered the stadium, and was awestruck by the incredible fireworks.  At 2am, I had to crash.

On our final trip day, the entire group decided to bail out from Montbard all the way to Dijon, instead of riding.  Further to a suggestion from our guide, the only two-wheeled vehicles we would be on would be Segways.  The city of Dijon offers Segway tours, and we all signed up.

Soviet-esque building near the Montbard train station

Rolling on steel wheels to end our trip. 28.07.12

After arriving at Hôtel le Sauvage in Dijon, I went across to Place Emile Zola for a quick bite to eat at Epicerie & Cie (www.epicerie-et-cie.com), a trendy place that is popular with locals.  Great food and service.  Orders are taken on hand-held touchpads, the menus are written like school books, and when the cheque comes, there’s a little bag of marshmallow candy along with it.  Cute, without being too precious.

Elaborate set-up for absinthe at Epicerie & Cie.

Quiche Dijonnaise for lunch

After lunch, I headed to Monoprix for a few things, and then to one of the many pharmacies in town.  Pharmacies in France are dedicated only to wellness.  You will not find chips, stuffed toys, or photo booths in them.  What you will find, however, are lots of lotions, creams, and fancy soaps, which make great souvenirs and gifts.  I stocked up for friends and family, and then stashed my treasure before heading off for a different two-wheeled adventure.

Trying out a Segway for the first time

Showing good balance next to Lac Kir in Dijon

We all met at the tourist office, where the Segways are kept, and got a quick lesson in how they work.  It take some getting used to the motion of the machine, but once you figure it out, it’s pretty basic.  The one-hour tour cost €16, went out to Lac Kir, and let us see a part of Dijon we might have missed otherwise.  It was so much fun.  Tour completed, I went to freshen up for the evening.

Since I had enjoyed Bruno Bar à Vins so much the week before, I went back, this time with the cycling guide and one of my tripmates.  I had a glass of Domaine Tollot-Beaut Bourgogne 2009, and a glass of Marc Colin St. Aubin “La Fontenotte” 2010 while I enjoyed the free salami and Bruno’s faux-curmudgeon act.

Having a glass of wine at Bruno's wine bar

Directly across the street from Bruno is La Maison des Cariatides (www.lamaisondescariatides.fr), considered one of the best restaurants in Dijon.  We had called a few days earlier to get a reservation, because the sophisticated, elegant room fills up every night.

Inside La Maison des Cariatides in Dijon

After ordering a glass of Crémant de Bourgogne, we were served three kinds of amuse-bouche: olives with cherry tomatoes; mackerel purée; and veal tartare.

Open kitchen

With some Crémant de Bourgogne

Amuse-bouche #1

Mackerel spread for amuse-bouche #2

Third amuse-bouche was veal tartare

The wine we chose for dinner was a 2007 Morey Saint-Denis that was fantastic.  Served slightly chilled, it matched beautifully with everything.

Excellent wine to go with my final dinner in Dijon

I opted for the Menu Découverte for €35, which had three courses.  To start, there was pâté en croûte de lapin et foie gras, which means rabbit and duck liver in a pastry crust.  A bit too much crust for my tastes, but still good.

Paté en croûte de lapin et foie gras

Next up was canette avec melon jaune et feneuil, duckling with yellow melon and fennel.  This was a stunning dish, with all the flavours working so well together.

Duck with yellow melon and fennel

To finish, I had mousse ivoire avec groseilles, a white chocolate mousse with red currants.  Simple, elegant, and delicious.  It was an excellent meal with which to end my vacation.

White chocolate mousse with red currants for dessert

This Morey-Saint Denis 2007 was good to the last drop

Sunday had me on a TGV out of Dijon at 07:13, headed to Charles de Gaulle airport for my flight home.  I arrived with a few hours to spare before my flight, so I shopped for more treats, and had a bit of breakfast.  In the departure lounge was a place called Be Relax, offering chair massages and manicures.  While it sounded like a boondoggle, you can’t properly judge something you’ve never tried, and my nails needed some TLC, so I put down €19 for what Be Relax called an Express Manicure.  My suspicion was that the people hired to work this station were not trained estheticians, since the technique was poor.  Verdict:  a waste of money, but at least I knew for sure.

My Air France flight was nearly full, but peaceful.  Seven hours and two movies later, I was home in Toronto, observing the post-trip ritual of ordering take-out food, and dreaming of the next adventure.

Crowded bike space, again, on train to Laroche-Migennes. 22.07.12

Mairie (city hall) in Moneteau

Looking at the bridge we just crossed to get to lunch

It was a glorious, sunny Sunday, so we were happy to find a restaurant that was open, and that had seats on a covered terrace.  We could be outside/inside, enjoying the fine weather without squinting.  The proprietor of Le Berix was a friendly guy, who produced tasty food from his kitchen, including some extraordinarily good fries, which he simply gave us without adding them to the bill.

Country omelette and salad for lunch in Moneteau

Old city centre in Auxerre, France

The ride to Cravant was easy.  Most of it was along a canal, so we watched boats as we rode.  We were staying in town for three nights at Hostellerie St. Pierre, a charming place that you might not notice right away, but that you would be lucky to find.

Outside our Cravant digs

The princess bed in my room in Cravant

WC in Gevrey-Chambertin room

It was charming, with each room decorated in its own way, and named for a famous Burgundian wine appellation.  For example, my room was the Gevrey-Chambertin suite.  One oddity: the showerheads had lights.

Disco light showerhead

The owner of the St. Pierre is a chef, so each night we would sit down to whatever multi-course meal he felt like giving us.  There was always soup in a little winged test tube to start, every plate was sprinkled with cinnamon, and two out of three nights dessert was moelleux de chocolat, molten chocolate cake that was out of this world.

Looking down on the terrace

Cocktail snacks before dinner

The wine list was extensive, and we loved every bottle we drank.  Our first night we drank Domaine Gilles Collet 2010 Chablis Premier Crus Montmains (€30), Domaine Gilles Collet 2004 Chablis Premier Crus Vaillons (€29), and Domaine Prieure 2007 Meurseault (€24.  A red, not something you think of with Meurseault).

Wines for our first dinner in CravantFirst night's menuLangoustine and vegetable soup

The July 2012 Northern Burgundy groupSalmon tartare with mango and pink peppercorns

Scallops with citrus

Shrimp tart

Pork with marjoram and vegetables

Pre-dessert of a crêpe with apple sauce

Moelleux de chocolat, sided by tart berries and melon sorbet

Breakfast took on a whole new meaning at the St. Pierre.  On top of eggs, cheese, bread, cereal, yoghurt, and fruit, there were four kinds of cake AND lemon tart.  The French really know how to live.

Side #1 of incredible breakfast buffet in Cravant

Side #2 of the breakfast buffet. Note the cakes.

The perfect bite of baguette, butter, and blue cheese

A great view near Irancy

Overlooking Chablis vineyards

Our first loop day ride was to the town of Chablis,  home to some of the world’s best wines made from Chardonnay.  I had lunch at a charming place called La Feuillette, where the menu of the day was €13,50, and included mackerel salad, striploin with potatoes, and tarte tatin (upside down apple pie).

Inside La Feuillette

Mackerel on salad to start lunch in Chablis

Faux-filet with potato gratin

Tarte tatin for dessert

My first tasting stop was at Saint-Antoine (www.abbayesaintantoine1583.com.sitew.com), where Laurent Camu told me that all his wines, except Petit Chablis, see time in oak barrels, that he uses only natural yeasts for fermentation, and that he has no time for biodynamics.  M. Camu believes winemakers who trumpet that approach are opportunists, and somewhat disingenuous, since there is no way to control pesticides which may blow over from a neighbouring vineyard.

Tasting room at St. Antoine

Wines at St. Antoine

I tasted the 2011 Chablis, which showed green apple, slate, and citrus zest; 2011 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains, which showed citrus zest, apple skin, and melon; and 2011 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons, which featured some citrus pith, cold stone, and cilantro notes.

Tasting room at William Fevre

For my second tasting stop, I called in at William Fevre (www.williamfevre.com), where I tasted three more wines, in ascending order of quality.  2011 Petit Chablis showed melon, guava, and yellow apple; 2011 Chablis showed red apple, green herbs, and pear; and 2010 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos showed lemon, tropical fruit, peach, and green apple.

Beautiful ride back, via Auxerre, where we stopped at a cycle shop called Le Grand Braquet to pick up some new gear.

Bike store in Auxerre

Our guide carrying a new tire rim

Cocktail snacks

Dinner was another concert of many parts, accompanied by Domaine de l’Abbaye 2008 Bourgogne de Tonnerre, Grand Regnard 2009 Chablis Grand Cru, and Caves Bienvenu 2010 Palotte Irancy.

Smoked salmon with olive oil to start dinner #2 in Cravant

Snails in parsley sauce

Sole stuffed with spinach, and wrapped in bacon, sitting on lobster sauce

Kangaroo filet with vegetables

Dessert warm-up dish of tiramisu mousse

Raspberry sorbet on nougat, with berries

Loop day ride #2 went to nowhere in particular, although the scenery was nice enough.

With Linda and a field of sunflowers

Sunflowers on the way out of Cravant

The (low) highlight of this ride is that it passes through a town called Anus.  Seriously, that’s the name, and yes, it means the same in French as it does in English.  Our group decided the whole populace must have been drunk when they picked the name.

What were they thinking?

Our final dinner was a diverse collection of dishes, with my personal favourite being the warm foie gras served over red cabbage and apricots.  More yummy wine, and it was off for a last sleep in my princess bed.

Foie gras with red cabbage and dried apricots

Asparagus in morel sauce on pastry

 

Fish, and a whole lot of cruciferous vegetables

Duck with pepper and mozzarella sauce

 

Chocolate cake returns with the same sidekicks